Les coulisses méconnues des retours gratuits en ligne : comment ils détruisent la planète et font flamber les prix

Les coulisses méconnues des retours gratuits en ligne : comment ils détruisent la planète et font flamber les prix

Every time I click “Free returns” on a product page, a tiny part of me cheers… and another part imagines a polar bear side-eyeing me from a melting iceberg. I used to think free returns were pure genius: I can order three sizes, keep one, send two back, and pretend I’ve mastered life. Then I started digging into what actually happens behind the scenes.

Let’s just say: it’s less “digital miracle” and more “logistical horror movie with bubble wrap.”

The big myth of the magical reverse trip

When I first imagined a product being returned, I pictured a sort of elegant loop: package comes back, gets inspected by a smiling worker, is lovingly repackaged, and goes right back on the digital shelf. Cue soft music and eco-friendly vibes.

Reality check: a very large share of returned items never see the “new product” page again. They’re too costly to check, clean, repackage, and restock. Sometimes, it’s cheaper for retailers to:

  • Send them to liquidation warehouses
  • Dump them into massive discount lots sold by the pallet
  • Destroy or recycle them (and “recycle” is often a generous term)

And all that still happens after your perfectly innocent “I just wanted to try two sizes” click sets off a transport chain worthy of a small airline company.

Your T-shirt’s secret world tour

Let me walk you through a surprisingly common scenario, starring a simple T-shirt you returned because “the white wasn’t white enough.”

  • It travels from the central warehouse to your home.
  • You return it. It goes back to a sorting center.
  • From there, it may be shipped to a specialized returns facility, possibly in another region or country.
  • If it’s not economically worth restocking, it might be sold to a liquidator on yet another continent.
  • From there, it might be resold, or… quietly buried in a landfill or burned.

That’s several trips by truck, van, and sometimes even plane — for a T-shirt that never truly found its happily-ever-after in your closet.

Researchers estimate that returns can increase the total carbon footprint of e-commerce fashion by up to 30–40% in some cases. I don’t know about you, but I didn’t expect the “Try before you buy” button to double as a frequent flyer program for leggings.

The landfill of “almost-new” stuff

Here’s the part that genuinely blew my mind: a shocking number of returned items are technically perfectly usable. Not damaged. Not broken. Just… economically inconvenient.

Especially for low- to mid-priced items, it can cost more to:

  • Inspect the product (Is it used? Damaged? Fake?)
  • Clean or sanitize it
  • Repackage it properly
  • Re-enter it into inventory and update all the systems

…than it does to simply write it off and move on.

So products that were made using water, energy, raw materials, labor, shipping and packaging sometimes end their lives in a warehouse graveyard or in a giant pile of unsold, “almost new” goods.

And financially? Retailers don’t just shrug and say “Oh well.” They factor those losses into their prices. Guess who’s paying for that truckload of half-sad, half-perfect yoga mats decomposing in the middle of nowhere? Spoiler: us.

How “free” returns quietly raise your bill

Every time I see “Free returns for 30 days,” I now mentally translate it to: “Returns included in price, plus a small existential crisis for the planet.”

From a business perspective, it’s very simple. The cost of returns includes:

  • Shipping back (and sometimes multiple shipping legs)
  • Labor at sorting centers and warehouses
  • Systems, software, and data management for reverse logistics
  • Losses from items that can’t be resold at full price
  • Discounts, liquidation, or destruction costs

These aren’t tiny line items. For some big fashion and shoe retailers, returns can represent 20–30% of online orders. In some categories, it’s even higher. One major brand publicly admitted that in certain markets, over half of the clothes ordered online are sent back. Half. That’s not shopping, that’s a boomerang contest.

To survive this financially and still look “competitive” on paper, retailers do a few things:

  • Increase base prices (quietly, over time)
  • Reduce product quality to protect margins
  • Limit services elsewhere (slower support, cheaper packaging, fewer perks)
  • Push more aggressive marketing to keep the sales volume high

In other words, free returns are like buffet restaurants: someone always pays for the person who came just to eat shrimp for three hours. Except here, the shrimp is a pile of size-guessing jeans.

The psychology of “I’ll just order both sizes”

Retailers know exactly what they’re doing: free returns reduce “purchase friction.” You and I are far more likely to click “Buy” when we know we can easily undo the decision later.

I’ve absolutely done it too. Ordered three sizes. Two colors. Two models. Told myself I’d “just choose calmly at home.” It feels responsible — like I’m being fussy and thoughtful. In reality, I just opened a wormhole in the logistics universe.

Free returns change how we shop in subtle ways:

  • We order more than we need, “just in case.”
  • We think less about whether we’ll actually use the item.
  • We experiment more impulsively with big or bulky items.
  • We feel less guilty about low-quality or fast-fashion buys because “I can always send it back.”

The simplest analogy? It’s like having an all-you-can-eat buffet at home, then sending back three plates after tasting one bite from each. The kitchen is going to have a bad day.

Why some retailers are quietly backing away from “free”

Funny twist: some big names are starting to charge for returns or restrict them. Not because they suddenly grew a conscience for the planet (though I’d love that), but because the system is breaking their margins.

They’ve discovered that “free returns forever” is like hosting a never-ending party where half the guests bring back the snacks and demand a refund on the music.

So they’re now:

  • Charging a small fee for returns by mail
  • Making in-store returns free, but online returns paid
  • Limiting the number of free returns per customer
  • Blocking or flagging “serial returners” (yes, that’s a thing)

The interesting side effect? When customers have to pay even a small amount to return something, return rates often drop significantly. Suddenly, everyone checks the size chart. Crazy how that works.

So… how do I shop without adopting a landfill?

I’m not about to tell you to go live in a forest and wear only handwoven moss. I still shop online. I still appreciate the comfort of not having to wrestle with a changing-room curtain that never fully closes.

But I’ve changed a few habits that make a real difference, without ruining the fun:

  • I check sizing like it’s a final exam. I look at size guides, I read reviews that mention height and weight, and I pay attention to comments like “runs big” or “fits narrow.”
  • I avoid ordering multiple identical sizes “just to see.” I pick the most likely one, based on reviews. If I’m really unsure, I try to find the brand in a physical store once.
  • I skip ultra-fast fashion for “maybe” purchases. If I’m not convinced, I don’t buy the €7 shirt I’ll probably send back — odds are it’s headed straight for the sad pile.
  • I favor brands that resell returned items as second-hand or “like new.” Many now have outlet, “renewed” or “pre-loved” sections and actually reprocess returns properly.
  • I think twice before returning something for a tiny reason. If the item is good quality and the “flaw” is minor, sometimes I just keep it and actually use it.

None of this is heroic. It’s just me trying to reduce the number of pointless mystery tours my sneakers take without me.

The hidden power of being a “boring” shopper

There’s something slightly rebellious about becoming a more intentional shopper in a system that wants us to order, return, and repeat like it’s a cardio workout.

Being the person who:

  • Reads the descriptions
  • Buys fewer, better items
  • Doesn’t treat free returns as a lifestyle

…is strangely powerful. It reduces your personal carbon footprint, it sends micro-signals to retailers through data (yes, they track this obsessively), and it saves you money because you’re not paying for a broken system hidden in higher prices.

So the next time you hover over “Order three sizes, I’ll just keep one,” picture the army of vans, scanners, warehouses, and slightly depressed T-shirts that will be mobilized for this heroic mission. Then ask yourself if maybe — just maybe — one well-chosen size could be enough.

And if you do return something, don’t panic. The goal isn’t perfection. It’s just being a bit more aware of the backstage chaos we set in motion with each “free” click.

Talk soon,
Sean

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